[bars] Ground post

[KC1SOZ]

So, 1) is a bad idea, 2) is ok? As I said, the mast would be a metal post
buried 8 ft into the ground.

The antenna in question is one of the Hy-Gain AV-14AVQ's that I bought from
Niece (and maybe a second one in a phased array later on.)

On Sun, Apr 30, 2023 at 4:04 PM Geoffrey Feldman <geoffreyf at comcast.net>
wrote:

> “Ground” has different meanings.  The short answer to your question is: No.
>
>
>
> Explanation: In this particular case, what you propose is ill advised.
> The electrical system ground post is for the electrical system.  RF or
> Lightning that is not absorbed by that post would then go into the
> residence.  Similarly surges from the power distribution system could go to
> your equipment.  Yes, people do this and get away with it but that doesn’t
> mean it’s a good idea or that it’s the same idea at different locales.
>
>
>
> If you are sure it’s buried 8’ STRAIGHT DOWN into the ground then it’s
> probably OK for lightning strike management.  (However there should be
> precautions for where the feedline goes into your home but that’s another
> story.) Where Lightning is concerned there is no perfect solutions just to
> pray that yours is good enough.
>
>
>
> If you are asking about an effective counterpoise then it may not be
> satisfactory.   The answer depends on soil conditions where you are but
> generally wires laid along the ground or just beneath the turf will provide
> better antenna performance (you didn’t mention the wavelength, so for
> shorter wave lengths there may be easier but adequate solutions)  Measure
> performance and if in doubt – add more horizontal wires along the ground.
>
>
>
> In both cases, what you suggest may not prevent common mode currents
> returning through the outer conductor of the Coax. This is bad but can be
> corrected with a choke near the entry point to the house.  If the E-field
> of your antenna doesn’t find a suitable place to complete its circuit
> (counterpoise or opposite side in a dipole) then it will find other paths.
> Antenna performance will suffer, impedance will be off etc.
>
>
>
> Back to the word “Ground” – the word is used in other ways such as
> “equipment ground, a no load safety return for electrical failure (the
> third prong of a plug).   It can mean a comment point that stated voltages
> in a circuit are measured from.  In other radio systems, it can mean a
> suitable return path for the e-field such as the metal body of a car, a
> radar dish etc.    If you were to sink 8’ ground rods 10 feet apart or so
> you would likely see voltage between them, pointing out that ground is
> never absolute, it’s always local.
>
>
>
> By the way, do not use a ground established for the buildings Cable TV
> service. That can make you super unpopular.
>
>
>
> Putting in a new ground can be a lot of fun.   When in doubt – do that.
> Get the standard ground stake sold at Lowes or Home Depot.   Get up on a
> step ladder to start it in.  A solid carpenters hammer is enough.  It may
> seem stuck, keep banging and hopefully you will break what it’s stuck on.
> (Dig safe is a good thing too)
>
>
>
> That should do it
>
> Geoff W1GCF
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* bars [mailto:bars-bounces at w1hh.org] *On Behalf Of *KC1SOZ
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 30, 2023 3:38 PM
> *To:* w1hh
> *Subject:* [bars] Ground post
>
>
>
> When putting up a ground-mounted vertical antenna...
>
>
>
> 1) Is it OK to attach the ground strap from one of the u-bolts to the
> residential grounding post already buried in the ground?
>
>
>
> 2) Is a grounding strap strictly necessary if the mast to which the
> antenna is attached with the u-bolts is itself a metal post buried almost 8
> feet into the ground?
>
>
>
> 73,
>
> KC1SOZ
>
> Juan
>
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